In the realm of natural dyes, there exists a captivating colorant with a rich history dating back thousands of years - Madder Extract. Derived from the roots of the Rubia Tinctorum plant, Madder Extract has been cherished for its vivid hues and its role in painting and dyeing fabrics.
Let's embark on a journey to uncover the secrets, history, and versatile applications of Madder Extract.
Madder Extract's enchanting colors emerge from the roots of the Rubia Tinctorum plant. This natural dye is born through a meticulous process, starting with the cultivation of these hardy plants. After the plants have reached maturity, their roots are harvested, and the alchemical process begins.
The roots are thoroughly washed and crushed, then mixed with water. Through careful fermentation and oxidation, the brilliant hues of Madder Extract are unleashed. The process mirrors a sort of natural alchemy, where the humble roots of a plant are transformed into a vibrant dye, ready to infuse life into various materials.
Madder Extract's history is as vivid as its colors. From ancient civilizations to medieval Europe and beyond, this natural dye has adorned textiles, artwork, and even illuminated manuscripts. In fact, it was among the most sought-after dyes during the Renaissance.
When it comes to Madder Extract, the historical significance of Turkey as a source of exceptionally high-quality Rubia Tinctorum roots cannot be overlooked. Renowned for its deep, rich red hues, "Turkey Red" dye has been synonymous with top-tier quality for centuries. This revered tradition of excellence continues today, with Turkish Madder Extract being celebrated globally for its superior colorfastness and purity.
Sustainability: Madder Extract is an eco-friendly alternative to synthetic dyes. It's biodegradable and poses minimal environmental impact.
Durability: Fabrics dyed with Madder Extract are known for their long-lasting colors that resist fading over time.
Health Benefits: Some studies suggest that Madder Extract might have medicinal properties, further emphasizing its value.
Applications of Madder Extract
Textile Dyeing: Madder Extract brings textiles to life with its striking reds, pinks, and oranges. Its versatility allows for a wide range of shades.
Art and Painting: Artists have long employed Madder Extract in their works, appreciating its lightfast qualities and unique color palette.
Historical Reconstructions: For historical reenactments and costume design, Madder Extract offers authenticity and accuracy.
Frequently Asked Questions About Madder Extract
Why is it called "Madder" extract?
The name "Madder" is believed to originate from the Old English word "mædere" or the Middle Dutch word "mader." This refers to the plant's roots, which are the primary source of the dye.
Are there different shades of Madder Extract?
Yes, Madder Extract can produce a spectrum of colors, including various shades of red, pink, and orange, depending on factors like concentration and mordants used.
Is Madder Extract safe to use?
Madder Extract is generally considered safe for dyeing textiles and has minimal toxicity. However, it's essential to follow proper handling and safety guidelines when using any dye.
Conclusion:
Madder Extract, derived from the Rubia Tinctorum plant, is a testament to the enduring appeal of natural dyes. Its vibrant history, eco-friendly nature, and versatile applications make it a cherished choice for artists, designers, and anyone seeking to add a touch of nature's brilliance to their creations.
Embrace the world of Madder Extract, where ancient traditions meet modern sustainability, and vivid colors await your artistic touch. Whether you're a textile enthusiast, a painter, or simply curious about the wonders of natural dyes, Madder Extract has a place in your creative journey.
We have tried to answer all your questions about this extract. If you would like to learn more or try natural madder extract, please visit themazi.com
Madder Extract, Natural Dyes, Rubia Tinctorum, Turkey Red Madder Extract, Natural Alchemy of Dyeing, History of Madder Dye, Sustainable Textile Dyeing, Eco-Friendly Fabric Dyes, Madder Extract in Art, Vibrant Natural Colors, Top-Quality Dye Materials, Dyeing Process of Madder Extract, Cultural Significance of Madder, Madder Extract Applications, Madder Extract for Textile Art, Madder Extract Painting, Historical Costume Design, Turkey Red Dye Legacy, Safe Use of Madder Extract, Artistic Uses of Natural Dyes
]]>Aluminium-based mordants are the most commonly used mineral salts for mordanting fibers. They come in various forms, each with its unique properties and uses. In this article, we'll delve into the four main types: potassium aluminium sulfate, aluminium sulfate, aluminium acetate, and aluminium formate. We'll explore their origins, environmental impact, and specific uses in dyeing, providing you with a comprehensive guide to these essential tools in the world of natural dyeing.
Potassium Aluminium Sulfate (Alum)
Alum is the traditional mordant used for protein fibers. It's derived from natural alum, found near active volcanoes or in desert areas, and has been used for dyeing since the 5th century BCE. Alum's historical significance is immense, shaping the Yorkshire coast's alum quarries and influencing political and economic dynamics with its importation and taxation from Bagdad and Turkey.
To use alum as a mordant, dissolve 20% WOF (Weight of Fiber) alum and 6% cream of tartar in hot water. Add your pre-wetted fabric and heat the mixture slowly, ensuring the solution covers the material completely. Wool and silk can be cold mordanted with alum by leaving them in a bucket overnight, which is more gentle on the fibers. This method, however, can leave the fabric slimy if left in the cold mordant bath for too long.
Aluminium Sulfate
Aluminium sulfate is an environmentally friendly alternative to alum. It requires only 2/3 of the weight compared to alum, thus reducing the amount of aluminium ions in the wastewater. This makes it a more sustainable choice for the eco-conscious dyer. Use at 15% WOF, either hot or cold, and it's suitable for both protein and cellulose fibers, although less effective than aluminium acetate for the latter. Despite being generally more expensive than alum, its environmental benefits make it a worthwhile investment.
Aluminium Acetate
Aluminium acetate is more fiber-friendly than alum, causing less stress on wool and maintaining its softness. It's the preferred mordant for cellulose fibers, replacing the traditional alum-tannin-alum-tannin method. However, it requires a chalk aftermath to remove unbound mordant, adding an extra step to the process. Despite this, the results are often worth the extra effort, with the mordant yielding vibrant and long-lasting colors on cellulose fibers.
Aluminium Formate
Aluminium formate is a gentle mordant developed by Johannes Harborth for felting artists. It can be used for wool, silk, and cotton, and even linen, although the latter will always have a lesser uptake of natural dyes. The mordant bath can be used several times until almost all of the aluminium compounds have been used up. What remains is formic acid, which is one of the non-toxic organic acids and is easily biodegradable. This makes aluminium formate a sustainable choice for those looking to reduce their environmental impact.
In a comparison of these four types of aluminium mordants, the dye results should improve in the following order: potassium aluminium sulfate, aluminium sulfate, aluminium acetate, and aluminium formate. However, the effectiveness of each mordant can vary depending on the type of fiber and dye used. It's always worth experimenting with different mordants and fibers to discover the unique hues and shades they can bring to your dyeing projects.
Remember, safety is paramount when working with mordants. Always wear gloves and safety glasses, and keep chemicals away from children and pets. If you come into contact with any chemicals, rinse with water immediately and remove any contaminated clothing.
With this guide, you're now equipped with the knowledge to navigate the world of aluminium mordants. Happy dyeing!
]]>Natural dyeing has captivated artists and crafters worldwide, seeking eco-friendly and authentic alternatives to synthetic colors. Among the ancient treasures of natural dyes, Organic Madder Root Powder stands out as a timeless classic, offering a spectrum of vibrant reds, pinks, and purples. Join us on a journey through history and learn how to harness the magic of madder for your own creative dyeing projects.
Understanding Organic Madder Root Powder: Organic Madder Root Powder, derived from the perennial plant Rubia Tinctorum, boasts evergreen leaves and yellow flowers. Cultivated mainly in the Aegean region, this plant has been used for dyeing fabrics for centuries, leaving a rich historical legacy. The active compound, alizarin, residing in the long roots of madder, is responsible for the brilliant hues it imparts.
A Glimpse into Madder's Historical Significance: The story of madder dye dates back to ancient Egypt, where it was employed in mummification wrappings, preserving the vibrant colors for millennia. Evidence of madder-dyed cloth has been unearthed in archaeological excavations across Libya, India, ancient Greece, Rome, and Viking settlements in northern Europe. The multi-step Turkey Red process, utilizing madder along with ash, sheep's dung, rancid olive oil, tannins, alum, and even sheep's blood, exemplified the dyeing expertise of the past. In the 1860s, the advent of synthetic alizarin led to a decline in madder's use in the textile industry, but its allure remains undiminished among modern artisans.
The Production Process: At Themazi, we take pride in ethical and sustainable practices. Our madder is grown and harvested by local experts in diverse villages, ensuring the preservation of this ancient tradition. After meticulous harvesting, the roots are naturally dried and then washed and powdered in-house, ready for your creative endeavors.
Dyeing Techniques and Tips: To achieve stunning results with madder root powder, preparation is key. Ensure your fabric is properly scoured before use, and experiment with various mordants for desired effects. For strong tones, use approximately 100g of madder powder for every 100g of fiber. Follow our detailed instructions, carefully regulating the dyebath temperature to witness the absorption of rich and captivating hues.
Exploring Color Variations: The versatility of madder root powder allows for a wide array of color variations. For more orangey shades, consider dipping fibers in a citric acid solution or water with vinegar after dyeing. To obtain mauve and purple colors, mordant fibers with iron sulfate separately to prevent contamination in the red dyebath. The spent dyebath can be utilized for paler shades, and adding citric acid or white vinegar may lead to yellow or peach tones, although they can be pH sensitive and may change to pink upon washing.
Testimonial from a Satisfied Customer: Ceilidh, a natural dyeing enthusiast from the south of France, discovered Themazi's madder and exclaimed, "I was totally blown away by the color I achieved. Super rich reds when used in conjunction with tannin and lovely salmon pinks when used with alum mordants alone." Such testimonials highlight the immense potential of madder root powder for your creative projects.
Embrace the natural beauty and historical significance of Organic Madder Root Powder in your dyeing journey. The Aegean region-sourced madder opens up a world of possibilities, allowing you to create vivid and enchanting colors on fabrics. Let this ancient dye be your guide as you delve into the captivating realm of natural dyeing, leaving your mark on history while nurturing the environment. Unleash the magic of madder root powder and elevate your creative expressions to new heights.
]]>Themazi is a small business that supplies natural dyes and fabrics for natural dyes and fabric lovers. We are passionate about creating beautiful, sustainable products that are kind to the earth. Our woven fabrics are a great choice for natural dyeing because they are made from natural fibers, such as cotton, linen, and silk. These fibers absorb natural dyes well and produce vibrant colors. Our fabrics are also pre-washed, which helps to prevent the colors from bleeding when they are dyed. We offer a variety of colors and patterns to choose from, so you can find the perfect fabric to create your own unique dyed garment.
What is natural dyeing?
Natural dyeing is a process of coloring fabrics using natural materials, such as plants, insects, and minerals. Natural dyes have been used for centuries to create beautiful, lasting colors. They are a more sustainable option than synthetic dyes, as they do not release harmful chemicals into the environment.
Why choose Themazi's fabrics for natural dyeing?
There are many reasons why you should choose Themazi's fabrics for natural dyeing. Our fabrics are made from high-quality natural fibers that absorb natural dyes well. We also offer a wide variety of colors and patterns to choose from, so you can find the perfect fabric to create your own unique dyed garment.
Examples of natural dyes
There are many different types of natural dyes that can be used to dye fabrics. Some common examples include:
How to dye your fabrics naturally
Natural dyeing is a relatively simple process, but it does require some time and patience. Here are the basic steps involved in natural dyeing:
Natural dyeing is a fun and rewarding way to create beautiful, sustainable fabrics. Themazi's fabrics are a great choice for natural dyeing because they are made from high-quality natural fibers and are pre-washed to prevent the colors from bleeding. With a little time and patience, you can create your own unique dyed garments that will last for years to come.
]]>
Introduction to Mordanting Cellulose Fibres:
Cellulose fibres, such as cotton and linen, are widely used in textile arts and crafts. However, unlike protein fibres like wool and silk, cellulose fibres require special treatment to achieve optimal dyeing results. Mordanting is a crucial step in dyeing cellulose fibres, as it helps the fibres to absorb the dye more efficiently and improve the colour fastness of the final product.
Understanding the Importance of Mordanting:
Mordanting is the process of treating fibres with a metallic salt, which acts as a fixative for the dye. The mordant creates a chemical bond between the dye and the fibre, resulting in a longer-lasting and more vibrant colour. Mordanting also helps to prepare the fibre for dyeing by removing any impurities or residues that may interfere with the dye uptake.
Choosing a Mordant for Cellulose Fibres:
There are several types of mordants that can be used for cellulose fibres, including alum, tannin, and aluminum acetate. Alum is a commonly used mordant for cellulose fibres, as it is readily available and produces good results. Tannin can also be used in conjunction with alum to enhance the depth and richness of the colour. Aluminum acetate is another option for mordanting cellulose fibres, as it is quick and easy to use, but it may not produce as vibrant colours as other mordants.
Step-by-Step Guide to Mordanting Cellulose Fibres:
Scour the Fibres: Before mordanting, it is important to thoroughly wash and scour the fibres to remove any impurities or residues.
Prepare the Mordant Solution: Dissolve the mordant in hot water according to the manufacturer's instructions. The amount of mordant used will depend on the weight of the fibres and the desired intensity of the colour.
Soak the Fibres: Immerse the pre-wetted fibres into the mordant solution, making sure that they are fully submerged. Stir the fibres occasionally to ensure even distribution of the mordant.
Heat the Mordant Bath: Gently heat the mordant bath to just below boiling point and maintain this temperature for about an hour. Avoid boiling the fibres, as this can damage them.
Rinse and Dry the Fibres: Once the mordanting process is complete, rinse the fibres thoroughly in warm water until the water runs clear. Squeeze out excess water and hang the fibres to dry.
Tips for Successful Mordanting of Cellulose Fibres:
Conclusion
Mordanting cellulose fibres is an important step in achieving vibrant and long-lasting colours when dyeing cotton, linen, and other plant-based fibres. The traditional three-step process using alum, tannin, and alum again can be time-consuming, but it is highly effective. Alternatively, using aluminium acetate can be a quicker option. Whichever method you choose, it is crucial to properly scour the fibres beforehand to remove any dirt and grease.
By following the steps outlined in this article and taking the necessary safety precautions, you can successfully mordant your cellulose fibres and achieve beautiful, colourfast results in your natural dyeing projects. Remember to experiment with different mordants and dye combinations to discover unique and interesting effects.
Happy dyeing!
]]>Mordanting is a crucial step in natural dyeing to ensure long-lasting and vibrant colors. For protein fibers like wool and silk, the mordanting process involves the use of potassium alum and cream of tartar.
]]>Natural dyeing is a wonderful way to add color to your fabrics and yarns without the use of synthetic dyes. However, if you want to achieve long-lasting and bright colors, you need to properly prepare your materials by mordanting them. Mordanting is the process of treating the fibers with a substance that will help the dye to bond to them, making the color more durable and vibrant. In this article, we will focus on how to mordant protein fibers like wool and silk.
What is Mordanting?
Mordanting is a crucial step in natural dyeing. When you dye your materials, the color needs to bond with the fibers to create a lasting and vibrant effect. Mordants are substances that help the dye to bond with the fibers. They can also alter the color of the final product. The most common mordants used for protein fibers are alum and cream of tartar.
Preparing the Fiber
Before you start mordanting, you need to prepare your fiber. The first step is to wash it thoroughly to remove any dirt, oils, or other substances that may interfere with the mordanting process. Once your fiber is clean, weigh it to determine how much mordant you need to use. You will need to use approximately 10% of the weight of the fiber in potassium alum and 5% of the weight of the fiber in cream of tartar.
Mordanting Wool
To mordant wool, you will need a stainless steel pot, a wooden spoon, a glass jar, gloves, and a facemask. Here is the step-by-step process:
Fill your stainless steel pot with enough water to cover your wool.
Add the potassium alum and cream of tartar to the pot and stir until the mordant is fully dissolved.
Add your wool to the pot and stir gently to ensure that the mordant is evenly distributed.
Turn on the heat and gradually bring the pot to a temperature of around 180°F (82°C). Be sure to stir the wool regularly to prevent it from sticking to the bottom of the pot.
Once the pot has reached the desired temperature, turn off the heat and let it cool. Leave the wool in the pot for at least 12 hours, or overnight.
After the wool has soaked in the mordant for the appropriate amount of time, remove it from the pot and rinse it thoroughly with cool water.
Gently squeeze the wool to remove any excess water, but do not wring it out.
Hang the wool to dry completely, away from direct sunlight.
Mordanting Silk
To mordant silk, you will need a stainless steel pot, a wooden spoon, a glass jar, gloves, and a facemask. Here is the step-by-step process:
Fill your stainless steel pot with enough water to cover your silk.
Add the potassium alum and cream of tartar to the pot and stir until the mordant is fully dissolved.
Add your silk to the pot and stir gently to ensure that the mordant is evenly distributed.
Turn on the heat and gradually bring the pot to a temperature of around 160°F (71°C). Be sure to stir the silk regularly to prevent it from sticking to the bottom of the pot.
Once the pot has reached the desired temperature, turn off the heat and let it cool. Leave the silk in the pot for at least 12 hours, or overnight.
After the silk has soaked in the mordant for the appropriate amount of time, remove it from the pot and rinse it thoroughly with cool water.
Gently squeeze the silk to remove the excess water, but avoid wringing or twisting it, as this can damage the delicate fibers. Hang the silk to dry in a well-ventilated area, away from direct sunlight.
Once the silk is completely dry, it is ready to be dyed. The mordant will help the silk fibers to bond with the dye molecules, resulting in a more vibrant and long-lasting color. Keep in mind that the exact shade of the final color will depend on a variety of factors, including the type of dye used, the length of time the silk is left in the dye bath, and the pH of the water.
In conclusion, mordanting protein fibers like wool and silk is an essential step in the natural dyeing process. Mordants help to bind the dye molecules to the fibers, resulting in more vibrant and long-lasting colors. Potassium alum and cream of tartar are two commonly used mordants for protein fibers, and they can be easily obtained from online retailers or specialty dye suppliers. By following the steps outlined above, you can mordant your wool and silk fabrics with confidence, knowing that you are setting the stage for beautiful and long-lasting colors.
]]>
To achieve long-lasting colors, the dyeing process usually requires the use of a mordant. Mordants are metallic salts that facilitate the bonding of the dyestuff to the fiber. Cellulose fibers also require a tannin in order to bond well. While tannins are not technically mordants (as they are not metallic salts), they are often included in the mordant process for cellulose fibers. For example, one might say that a fiber was "mordanted with alum at 15% WOF and myrobalan at 5% WOF."
Some natural dye recipes still call for the use of heavy metal mordants, such as chrome. However, we do not recommend using these, as they can be toxic and present real challenges for safe use and disposal. Moreover, most colors obtained through the use of heavy metals can be achieved through overdyeing or variations in the dye procedure. For those who wish to obtain a mordant from plants, Symplocos is a natural bio-accumulator of alum.
It's important to note that mordant procedures for protein and cellulose fibers are not interchangeable.
The most frequently used mordant by dyers for protein (animal) and cellulose (plant) fibers and fabrics is potassium aluminum sulfate, also known as alum. It improves light and washfastness of all natural dyes and keeps colors clear. It is inexpensive and safe to use. This form of alum is refined from bauxite, the raw state of aluminum ore, and is free from the impurities (such as iron) that some other alums may contain. It should be used at 15% WOF.
Aluminum acetate is often the preferred alum mordant for cellulose fibers and fabrics. It is refined from bauxite with acetic acid as a purifying agent. For this reason, some dyes develop to a richer shade on cellulose when mordanted with aluminum acetate. Aluminum acetate is the recommended mordant when printing with natural dyes. It is more expensive and sometimes hard to find. It should be used at 5-8% WOF.
Homemade aluminum acetate can be made from sodium acetate and potassium aluminum sulfate. Depending on the availability of these materials in your area, this can be cost-effective. To make enough aluminum acetate to mordant 1 kilogram of fabric, combine 150 grams of sodium acetate or calcium acetate with 150 grams of potassium aluminum sulfate in 3 liters of hot tap water. This can be added to your mordant bath.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
: The strength of the madder extract can vary depending on various factors, such as the quality and freshness of the madder root, the length of time it is simmered, and the addition of the vinegar or citric acid. You may need to experiment to determine the best method and proportions for your specific needs.
Why should you use natural dyes? Here are some of the best reasons to adopt these organic extracts in your creative projects.
Natural dyes are some of the oldest dyestuffs that have been used since ancient times. Our ancestors have adopted the use of organic extracts in their daily activities. It is a known fact that those who are at a higher level in ancient societies tend to wear clothes dyed with organic extracts. Since those ancient times, we have used natural dyes for a wide variety of occasions.
That being said, natural dyes are now considered ideal for personal projects or creative endeavors. Artists and craftspeople adopt natural dyes in their projects as the use of chemical or synthetic dyes is not healthy to work with.
After a thousand years, natural dyes remain magnificent colorants that we still use to surprise ourselves with amazing results. Unlike their synthetic counterparts, they offer such dyeing sessions and results that we can not achieve with conventional methods.
Every dyeing session you start with will have different results than the previous one. The unique and surprising results you will get at the end of your projects will help you come up with your way of dyeing your clothes.
As you familiarize yourself with the process, you will decide how much mordant should you add to the mixture or how long the solution should stay in the pot. All of these are amazing for boosting creativity.
Dyeing with natural dyes allows you to get experimental. This ancient and revered dyeing method is nothing similar to the painting process where you depend on synthetic or chemical dyes. Painting with them is often more cerebral because you know what tones you will get, which renders the process basic and devoid of surprise.
Using natural dyes when dyeing clothes doe not expose you to any type of chemicals. These completely organic extracts do not contain additives or substances as well. Moreover, unlike clothes made from synthetic dyes, they will not be harmful to your skin health. If you want to wear your naturally dyed clothes, you will not have to think about toxic substances and petrochemicals.
It is also worth noting that some natural dyes are colorfast. It means that they bite into the fabric and do not fade away even after multiple washes. Using mordants with certain dye solutions can also make them resistant to washing.
Gathering and ordering the ingredients to prepare for your project also offers a unique experience that is not found in most other hobbies. Natural dyes, from the first step to the final, is an amazing journey that is full of surprises. Even preparing the materials and wondering if you are going to achieve the desired shades is such a great stage in the process.
Preparing a mordant, pouring indigo, and stirring your boiling solution will do wonders for your creativity. All of these and more offer all the reasons why you should use natural dyes instead of synthetic dyes.
Natural dyes are not allergenic. They are unlikely to trigger any allergic reactions and skin irritations. Synthetic dyes, on the other hand, are chemically produced substances that can cause various health issues. Wearing clothes that are painted with such chemicals tends to result in a wide variety of skin problems in the future. That’s why more and more brands are now utilizing more sustainable production methods where it does not pose risks to our health.
Yet again, synthetic dyes and chemical colorants will continue to be in our lives for a long time. They are an integral part of the apparel industry and will be essential for painting textile materials. That’s why we, as consumers who should look after our skin health, should focus on depending on natural methods.
In the end, It is safe to say that dyeing a cloth from indigo will be a lot healthier than using a spray can or a different type of chemical product.
Your passion projects with natural dyes will be quite humble in terms of material requirements. Apart from the source materials like the extracts and the cloth, there is a handful of stuff you need to get started with natural dyeing. Here are some of them:
It is strongly recommended to prepare all these materials before you start your dyeing journey. Also, note that the pots and pans will not be useful for cooking after you are done with them.
There is no doubt that you will enjoy your natural dyeing projects. The process is will allow you to reach new heights in creativity. Make sure that you dive into worlds of madder and indigo to come up with unique and amazing results.
]]>Dyeing textile dates back to the early stages of the Neolithic period. Dyeing with natural sources has a history of more than 4,000 years. In time, the way we approach dyeing fabrics has indeed evolved. The process has gone through complex changes throughout the years. But the activity itself has remained as we have never stopped colorizing what we use and wear.
Our ancestors used food, plants, and insects to dye their clothes. With the current technology, we have chemical dyes that are much more vivid than their natural counterparts. But their effect on the environment is appalling.
That brings us to the advantages and disadvantages of these dyestuffs. Here's your guide to understanding natural dyes vs. synthetic dyes.
Natural dyes come directly from natural and organic resources. It is possible to obtain a natural colorant from fruits, plants, minerals, insects, and animals.
Synthetic dyes, on the other hand, are chemical colorants obtained through a complex production process. Manufacturers use a wide array of chemicals like chromium, sodium, copper, chloride, benzene, mercury, and many more.
While these chemicals and substances make the synthetic dyes more durable, their production has devastating impacts both on the workers and the environment.
And natural dyes are much better for the personal projects of artists and craftspeople.
Dyeing with natural extracts opens up a new door to creativity and freedom. They are perfect for personal projects for those who wish to experiment.
The results of the natural dyeing projects are often mesmerizing. Because even though the chemical dyes and paints are more vibrant, the natural dyes yield mesmerizing tones on the fabric.
As their sources are renewable, natural dyes do not harm biodiversity. These eco-friendly colorants are extracted from plant roots. Some of the most popular natural dyes are indigo and madder. The former is known for its deep blue shades extracted from the Indigofera tinctorum plant. And madder, which yields red shades is known as Rubia tinctorum.
Yet, of course, natural dyes are not as popular as synthetic dyes. That's because massive clothing brands and mass manufacturers depend on chemicals when it comes to the dyeing process.
Dyeing with these colorants also includes certain dye fixatives. Called mordants, these substances make the dye bite into the fabric. Thanks to the mordanting process, it is also possible to achieve different tones with the same extract. That's what makes natural dyes special. The possibility of seeing different results in every dyeing project is only one of the benefits of the natural way.
Some dyes don't need mordants. Called substantive dyes, these dye extracts are usually rich in tannin. That's how they successfully retain their colorfastness. Indigo and black walnut hulls are some examples of these dyes.
As they are completely natural, they are hypoallergenic and antimicrobial. That's why there is a rising number of people who use these eco-friendly colorants. Talented craftspeople around the world and new environmentally responsible clothing lines use them to dye their products.
Here are some of the most popular natural dyes.
Dyeing with extracts like indigo or madder offers a unique experience. Because knowing that these dyestuffs have been used for more than at least four thousand years is certainly a great feeling. With the ways of the old, you get the chance to understand and respect our ancestors.
There are also many factors that determine the outcomes of your dyeing project. For example, using different types of mordants will get you vastly different results. Or leaving the fabric in the water for a different amount of time can alter the outcome of your project as well.
The beauty of this process has been a source of inspiration to artists and craftspeople. Our ancestors used colored fabrics to pinpoint certain places and objects around them as well. Natural extracts like indigo or madder have been used to identify a person's status in society. That's how and why the natural way has stood against the test of time.
Due to the high costs in the raw material market, engineers and textile experts started focusing on developing alternative methods. Thanks to the developments in synthetic chemistry, chemists and entrepreneurs have focused on synthetic organic chemistry.
Sir William Henry Perkin was the first to produce chemical dyes. After Sir Perkin took the first steps in 1865, chemical dyes started to revolutionize the garment industry and laid a foundation for the world of fashion to thrive.
Chemical dyes are an integral part of the garment industry. There is a plethora of different methods and strategies utilized in industrial textile dyeing. That's why they are vastly more popular than natural dyes.
Their effect on workers and the environment is harrowing. But manufacturers continue to promote their use to meet the demand of the market. All of these factors render natural dyes more niche. Yet, of course, this does not minimize the many benefits of natural dyes and their many benefits.
Although synthetic dyes with certain chemicals are now banned, the use of toxic additives still poses threats to skin health. Especially for babies, whose skin absorbs these chemical compounds easily, some artificial dyes are not completely safe.
Today, advancements in technology allow us to produce apparel products in immense volumes. And their production process includes chemical dyeing as well. This made way for the fashion industry to develop in the most creative ways.
That's because colorants produced from chemical compounds yield accurate color results. They are easier to formulate and offer a reliable dyeing process.
Petroleum-based synthetic dyes are very hazardous to the ocean. The methods of disposing of them result in animal deaths. Their production and removal are extremely harmful to biodiversity as well. Because most of the residues and waste of petrochemicals end up in the seas.
There is no doubt that both dye types are valued differently. That's why it is best to inform ourselves about topic of natural dyes vs. synthetic dyes.
Those who wish to foray into the world of natural dyeing though, there is no similar feeling breathing a life into a fabric. And that's something you can only get with natural dyes.
]]>
Madder roots are one of the oldest dye extracts. Also known as Rubia tinctoria, it has been widely used for many centuries in Turkey and certain regions in Mesopotamia as well.
The roots of the plant often produce fiery reds. Though the color shades might differ based on the features of the soil. The weather and the water also affect the shades of reds that madder roots yield. With certain techniques, it is also possible to achieve purple, pink, orange, and yellow. The ancient dyestuff has other variants like Rubia cardifolia (Indian madder), but the most famous madder is the one famous for its rich reds. As the plant is mainly used in Turkey, it has also been called Turkish Red. Its vibrant color shows itself on traditional wall hangings and mesmerizing carpets. It has been widely used for more than a thousand years in many dyeworks.
Madder plant is the best source to obtain natural dyes. Artists and craftspeople who wish to achieve red dye when dyeing leather, cotton, and wool often depend on madder. In this extensive guide, we will delve into the process of dyeing with madder extract as well.
Most natural dyers prefer using madder when they want to achieve vibrant red colors. It yields true and deep red shades especially when used with alum mordant. The mordanting process helps the color bite into the textile. Best dyeworks often include an accurate mordanting process to obtain great results. That also applies to your dyeing session with madder.
On the other hand, different types of mordants can also be used when dyeing with madder extract. Using iron as a mordant results in a shift towards purple shades. Madder extracts yield dark purple when applying an alkaline modifier, similar to aubergine purple.
Here’s another guide to dyeing with madder root powder. Follow the instructions below for a successful dyeing session.
If the result does not make you happy, feel free to reheat the dyebath until you reach the desired colors. Leave it to cool after the second dyebath.
As mentioned earlier, madder roots are quite rich and generous. Therefore, it is quite possible to obtain orange shades thanks to the addition of other solutions. Citric acid solution or water with vinegar results in more yellow and orange shades. Also, keep in mind that madder dye is pH sensitive. This means that washing the fibers with alkaline causes a color shift towards pink.
On the other hand, madder extract can also be a great source of purple shades. In order to achieve dark purple shades with madder, fibers should be mordanted with iron sulfate.
If you still wish to achieve reds, make sure that you have the right temperature for the dyebath. The right temperature for dyebaths that contain madder and iron mordant is around 60 to 70 degrees Celsius.
Artists and natural dye enthusiasts still use madder in most of their products. Madder is still used to dye woven and knotted carpets in some parts of Turkey. While we know it by the name Turkey Red or Turkish Red, it is also found in Central Asia and the Middle East. Different variants of the plant like Wild Madder (Rubia Peregrine). There are examples of fabrics dyed with madder even in Japan.
There is no doubt that madder is an exquisite natural dye. Those who wish to achieve the deepest reds depend on this amazing plant.
]]>Dyeing with such natural dyes is also faster and easier as they allow you to skip the mordanting process altogether. Knowing that some of the mordant substances are toxic, you might want to dye without them as well. Regardless of your reason for a mordant-free dyeing session, these natural dyes below will ensure that you get colorfast results. Due to the high level of tannin, they encourage you to experiment and get great results as well.
There are lots of different natural dyes that retain their colorfastness. We also call them substantive dyes as they bite into the fabric without the addition of an extra mixture. Unlike their adjective counterparts, indigo and black walnut hulls will allow you to get mesmerizing results.
The world of natural dyeing starts with indigo. This amazing natural extract is one of the oldest dyes that natural dyers have depended on. It has been commonly used by our ancestors in Mesopotamia. Its ability to bind to the fiber makes it one of the best substantive dyes as well.
It is important to note that there are various forms of indigo. Yet the most common one is harvested from the Indigofera plant, native to the Indian subcontinent. The process of harvesting and fermenting the plant’s leaves is quite complex. Yet the result is always amazing as indigo is a rich and vibrant color. Natural dyers often describe it as a mixture of blue, violet, and dark blue with purplish tones.
Indigo is one of the best natural dyes that don’t need a mordant. If you want to achieve this wonderful color in your dyeing sessions, make sure that you have the best form of natural indigo in your dyeing arsenal.
Black walnut hull powder is another natural extract that is high in tannin. Natural dyers who harvest walnuts often see that the dye stain remains on their hands for a long time. That’s because the walnut dye is tannin-rich, making it a viable option for dyeing sessions without a mordant. Today, we know that the most influential painters like Rembrandt and Leonardo da Vinci used walnut hull dye as it can also be used to make ink. In the past, walnut hull dye was used to dye hair and beard.
Most natural dyers today depend on the powder obtained from black walnut hulls to get more earthen tones. Those who look for warmer brown shades prefer this very natural dye as it is easy to use and does not need a mordant.
While the hull powder does serve as a natural binding solution, using a mordanting substance can help you achieve darker brown tones as well.
Oak gallnuts are one of the best sources for natural mordants. They have an incredible amount of tannin as well. That’s why they are not only great as substantive dyes, but they are also great to use in the mordanting process. Oak gallnut powder will ensure that the natural dyers achieve sharper tones when used on cellulose fibers. It is possible to see the use of oak galls in eco-printing as well.
Quebracho refers to a tree species that are native to South America. And the word quebracho in Spanish means “axe breaker” as the species are known for their firm and durable structure.
Similar to its hardness, the amount of tannin in these trees is incredibly high. After chipping and cooking the logs, the quebracho powder comes with at least 60% tannin. The incredibly high level of tannin makes it one of the best natural dyes as well. This allows the natural dyer to skip the mordanting process.
Dyeing with quebracho will often create golden browns and brown reds. Yet the extract, which is quite rich in tannin, can also be used with alum mordant. While that is not essential, using an alum substance will result in brighter colors.
Yes, as we mentioned above, there are natural dyes that can be used on cellulose fibers without mordanting. The organic extracts above are great for dyeing without binding solutions. You will see that the colors occur quite naturally when using these dyes. The amount of tannin within them is immense, making them capable of retaining their color on natural fibers.
If you do not have any alum available or wish to avoid other methods for environmental concerns, consider using natural dyes above they bite into the fiber and retain their color for a long time.
It is indeed important to follow the base instructions of the dyeing and mordanting process. But the world of natural dyeing encourages us to experiment and get creative. You will often see that the results are never the same even if you use the right ingredients in every dyeing session. That’s the very reason why dyeing with natural extracts is thrilling.
Moreover, not having enough materials for mordanting should not stop you as well. As we have covered in this guide, the world of dyes is rich and has room for freedom and experimentation. Try dyeing those natural fibers of your and achieve the most wonderful tones that will make you proud of your project.
]]>Here’s your guide to foraying into the world of mordants, dyes, and natural dyeing.
Dyeing with plant extracts is one of the oldest traditions in our history. Our ancestors depended on a wide variety of plants and insects to color their clothing. This way of dyeing clothing is a lot healthier than the chemical painting method. Instead of environmentally dangerous components, dyeing with plant extracts is completely eco-friendly and does not harm nature. It is also great to see the different results of the dyeing. As there are many important factors, you will likely see varying color shades in painting batches.
Natural dyeing is a process that requires time and patience. Yet the results are always mesmerizing. Provided that you follow the instructions below correctly, you will experience the beauty of dyeing with plants, similar to our ancestors who have passed it for generations to come.
Before we start, it is important to note that collecting the dyeing should not be harmful to the environment. If this is your first foray into the world of natural dyeing, you need to make sure that you are not damaging the environment while collecting materials. While finding the essential plants is already difficult, keep in mind that you need to be even more careful when gathering the ingredients.
Cotton, wool, silk, muslin, and organic linen are the best fibers for dyeing with natural extracts. They retain color a lot better than many other fibers. They also do not require a lot of work before you start the process. In short, they are easy to prepare and easy to dye for all of your natural dyeing projects.
After ensuring that you have all of the required materials, prepare the fiber or the fabric by treating it with a mordant. Make sure that you follow the mordanting instructions to ensure you add the right amount to it.
Mordanting is essential to make sure the fabrics retain their color. Also, note that extracts like indigo do not require a mordant. Yet again, this process must be completed for other fibers to preserve their color. For alum, weigh the fabric and divide its weight by four. That’s how much alum you will need to use. An ounce, which is equal to two level tablespoons, should be enough.
Note that adding vinegar to your mordant solution is a must. Especially when painting wool and silk, do not forget to add vinegar. When you are dyeing cotton, hemp, or flax, the addition of table salt is quite important as well.
Make sure you have a clean pot or a bucket to paint the cloth. The best pots for the painting are stainless steel or enameled pots. Fill it with warm water and wet the fabric and squeeze it while avoiding making it completely dry. ensure that every side of the fiber is wet as well.
After that, add the mordant solution into the pot and heat it until the temperature reaches around 180 F. Make sure you stir for an hour at that temperature. After this process is complete, leave the fabric in the pot for the night.
After waiting in the pot with a mordant, wait for the fabric to dry and then rinse it in cold water.
Add the natural extract and the right amount of water into the pot. That way, the dye extract will reach every part of the fabric. Do not worry if the color seems too dark at first. It will reach lighter tones after it is rinsed and dried. If the fabric color seems too light in the beginning, try adding a bit more dye to increase the volume of color.
Heat the painting pot until it reaches around 180 F. This is a great temperature for natural dyeing. Make sure you heat it for an hour.
Natural Dyeing Tips and Tricks
Here are some useful tips and tricks in your dyeing adventures.
Here’s everything you need to know about dyeing fabrics with natural extracts. From mordanting to dyeing, follow the instructions above to get great results. But always feel free to experiment as these types of things can only be learned by making mistakes.
Also, note that you may get different results than the ones you see on the internet. There are many factors that play a key role in the dyeing process. That’s why you can always try again and experiment with different materials and extracts.
]]>
Humanity has been making use of the flora and fauna since the dawn of civilization. Our ancestors depended on nature’s offerings to create wonderful pigment extracts. Now we have the methodology and the experience of many generations to create colours from natural sources. The use of plant based natural dyes has increased in the fashion and garment industry as well. With society becoming more concerned about the environmental impacts of synthetic dyes, the pigments extracted from natural sources have witnessed a resurgence.
While synthetic dyes are still an important part of production around the world, it is safe to say that the demand for natural rivals has increased in recent years.
A natural dye is a colourant produced from plants, lichen, fungi, algae, and roots. It is also possible to obtain distinct colours from biological sources like insects and invertebrate animals. Artists and small garment businesses work with indigo, madder, weld, myrobalan, buckthorn and tree barks when creating these organic colourants.
While we can separate natural dyes based on which source they are obtained, they come in two main categories. Regardless of their sources, experts separate them by their ability to fix on the fibre or the textile. Today we know these two categories as substantive and adjective.
Also known as direct dyes, these dyes do not require a mordant to colour a certain fibre or textile. They bond with the fibre without the need for a mordant, which is a dye fixative used to preserve the colour’s lifespan on the texture.
That’s why natural dye makers prefer making use of the Indigofera species. As one of the most popular and older dyes, indigo yields a blue colour and also does not require a mordant. Its structure serves as a natural mordant.
The development in the field of textile and garment industry has increased the demand for substantive dyes. They also caused most manufacturers to stop using mordant dyes, rendering them obsolete in the fashion industry.
Nowadays, only artists and small businesses prefer using adjective dyes. As they are used with mordants, the process of using them is relatively longer. While they have been used for more than 2,000 years, it is safe to say that they have become obsolete in recent years. Yet again, the delight of using mordants to create natural dyes has always been there.
That is very reason why the most talented and esteemed craftspeople prefer natural dye fixatives like oak gallnut as a mordant. As aleppo oak gallnuts from the oak tree are the earliest and richest source for natural tannin.
The most popular materials used to obtain these dyes are madder and cochineal. These sources tend to yield different colours when the fibre is pre-mordanted. All of these factors affected the use of adjective dyes in the industry.
Experts and craftspeople call dyes that do not fix to the fibre ‘fugitive’. It means that they easily fade away after multiple washes. Thanks to various mordants and solutions, natural dyes can be made washfast.
It is also important to note that natural dyes like indigo, walnut, woad, goldenrod and cochineal are colourfast. They fix to the fibre and are quite resistant against washing and sun exposure.
If you like to know more about How to Prepare Fiber/Fabric for Natural Dyeing please click the link.
One of the most popular questions about natural dyes is about their longevity. While there is no doubt that they are healthier than their synthetic rivals, people are wondering whether they fade faster.
Most of the natural dyes like indigo are actually lightfast. Even though they are not superior to synthetic dyes in this case, naturally dyed clothing can maintain its colour for multiple washes. If the fabric or the textile is put into the pre-mordanting process, it will become even more colourfast. These organic colourants tend to perform well even in sun exposure.
While there are surprisingly resistant to fading, it goes without saying that they can’t match their rivals, which are produced using chemical substances.
There are many reasons why natural colourants are preferred to their synthetic counterparts. The toxic fuels and various other pollutants used in the production of synthetic dyes encourage consumers to wear clothes dyed with natural extracts. Another great feature about them is that anyone can create dyes at home with the right materials. As we mentioned earlier, creating biodegradable and non-allergenic dyes at home is quite possible.
Massive brands and manufacturers have been using synthetic dyes for more than a hundred years. Their preference for using these colourants has caused people to consider the use of the latter as niche. Contrary to the popular belief, dyes made from natural sources are resistant to light exposure and are also quite colourfast.
The main reason why the fashion industry prefers chemically manufactured dyes is, of course, the production costs. Synthetic colourants eliminate the issues like finding natural sources and utilizing expertise, which are required in the process of obtaining dyes from natural sources.
The production expenses and the process of dyeing fabrics with synthetic dyes is faster, cheaper, and a lot easier for most companies. Even though they are easy to produce, it does not mean that they are the viable option both for our environment and future.
On the other hand, their negative impact on the environment is causing even more backlash in society. The effects of the production on the atmosphere and environment are getting out of hand each day. Another problem with the production is that it requires a massive amount of water. Most dye and apparel factories in the world depend on water sources. Yet they dump toxic waste yielded from the production into bodies of water as well.
This just adds to the pile of reasons why the garment industry should adapt to more environmentally friendly ways. All the reasons above and more are enough to show that natural dyes are the better option for the future. The fact that their sources are renewable can allow companies to create sustainable roadmaps as well.
When it comes to painting with plants, a lot of people think of egg painting first. No wonder, as it is one of the first things we can do at home and easily - so as we approach Easter, we can make the eggs cooked in purple or brownish red by cooking them in an onion peel.
Recognizing the most perfect painting plants required the experience of many, many generations. It was necessary to know when to collect, how to store, whether the particular plant could be grown. An essential feature of a good painter is that the dye material can be easily extracted from it, and after dyeing, the material retains its colour for a long time without fading when exposed to light or moisture.
Anyone who wants to try plant-based paint dying these days faces a number of obstacles. On the one hand, the knowledge required for this is almost completely missing from our ordinary knowledge base, and unfortunately, we cannot make a large selection in the literature.
If we search in nature, we may run into obstacles because many plants are now protected or highly protected, so collecting them in nature is forbidden. If we are lucky and have the opportunity to collect an unprotected painting plant, then there is no harm in being careful: do not fall on the bushes, trees, do not bald them completely, leave them to those who come after us and last but not least to the birds. After all, many crops suitable for painting are a vital winter food for our birds. In the forest, in the parks, but also in our own garden and in our household, we can find many plants that are not only eye-catching or gastronomic, but also excellent for obtaining paint from them. Examples are onion peel, carrot, turmeric, saffron, walnut shell.
Collection, drying:
Most plants can be used equally fresh or dried. Dry the plants in a shady, airy place, spread them out, tie them in a bunch and hang them. Be careful, because the sun is taking their colour! Whether this way or shredded, it can be stored in a canvas bag until used. Freshly picked berries can also be stored in the freezer.
How to dye with natural dye on fabric?
Only dye textiles of natural origin with plant dyes because plant dyes do not completely trap the synthetic fibres.
The textile is first pre-treated, i.e. boiled in alkaline water. This will soften the textile fibres and make it easier to absorb the dye. The preparation is carried out in soapy water. We can count with 3-4 litres of water for ten dkg of wool or cotton, in which we dissolve a quarter of washing soap beforehand. The raw wool is heated over low heat for half an hour, the cotton is cooked more vigorously in it for an hour. After cooking, the material is rinsed several times in cold water.
For mordanting during dyeing, a separately prepared concentrated solution of the metal salt is mixed into the dye and only then is the wet fabric added. Be careful not to leave undissolved chemicals at the bottom of the pot, as this may stain the paint! After mordanting, the already coloured textile is opened and placed in the prepared pickle without rinsing, cooked for 30-40 minutes, rinsed after lifting and twisting.
The purest colours are obtained by mordanting before painting. The dye mixture and mordant solution can be used several times to obtain an increasingly fading hue. The used and vaporized chemicals have to be refilled every time with approximately the half of the original amount.
The plant parts with a high tannin content, such as oak buds, oak bark, alder, spruce and birch bark, tan leaves, give a lasting brown colour even without special mordanting. Therefore, when boiled with other plants, they can be used to bind dyes, especially on plant fibres. However, we should expect the original colours to be tanned.
Follow our blog to learn about mordants in detail next week.
]]>
Muslin fabric is is a type of fabric made of 100% natural cotton. It is an organic, healthy, natural, soft and breathable product. Moreover, it has a texture that softens as it is washed. It is also an indispensable part of baby products.
Many believe it got its name from the city of Mosul, where it was first built.
One of the oldest cotton cloths, muslin cloth was hand-woven in Turkey and became extremely popular in the world.
Muslin has become a very popular fabric over the years for its soft, light and pure feel and texture.
So why is muslin fabric so important? We know that your baby's skin is much more sensitive and sensitive than yours.
A baby's skin barrier is 30% thinner than an adult's, making it difficult for them to adapt easily to temperature changes.
Your baby's skin also loses moisture twice as fast and can therefore easily become dry and flaky.
That's why your baby's innocent skin deserves the best care and the gentlest fabrics.
Here are some of the reasons why muslin is one of our top choices for your baby's skin.
1. Thanks to its open weave, muslin is an exceptionally light and breathable fabric that helps keep your baby comfortable and warm, but at the same time allows air to flow freely, preventing the possibility of overheating.
That's why muslin fabric is the safest choice for all baby products.
2. Muslin fabrics are very soft for your baby's sensitive skin and keep your child comfortable, pampered and in a state of pure happiness!
Themazi's are manufacturing its own muslin with premium care.
3. Muslin is also a stretchy fabric and stretches gently to conform to your baby's shape for maximum comfort. Your baby will sleep longer and better when comfortably wrapped in a muslin blanket.
4. It is an extremely durable fabric and gets softer every time you wash it.
5. Pure cotton muslin fabrics are free of chemicals and harmful substances, making them 100% safe for your baby's skin and sustainable and gentle for our environment.
6. Muslin cloths can be used and reused in a variety of different ways.
Once you're done using it as a baby blanket, you can even use it as a cleaning cloth, nursing cover, changing mat or crib sheet.
Muslin fabric is now woven in many different way with using different technic. As themazi we manufacture 2 layer muslin, 3 layer muslin and 4 layer muslin and many other woven cotton fabrics in Turkey.
Acorn Extract
The acorn is the fruit of varieties of oak trees (quercus species). Oak is native to the northern hemisphere, and over 500 varieties exist. Acorn tannin has good wash and light-fastness. It can be used as a dyestuff for purple and ginger brown colours, or as a tannin in a mordanting process.
Acorn extract is a very beginner friendly dye because even without the addition of mordants you can achieve beautiful colors. If you are considering taking up dying fabrics with plant dyes as your new hobby or DIY project, we recommend starting out with acorn extract.
How to use dried acorn extract /acorn tannin powder:
Ensure your fiber/fabric has been properly scoured before use.
To dye fabric/fiber: Use at least 20g acorn extract powder to dye approximately 100g of fiber. Acorn extract powder is suitable for cold, hot and all-in-one dyebath techniques. To make an all-in-one dyebath, pour boiling water over the powder. Allow the mixture to cool overnight. The next day, bring the dyebath to a gentle simmer, add the fabric/fiber and simmer gently for an hour. Leave for several hours or overnight, stirring occasionally.
The longer the fabric stays in the mixture the deeper and more intensive the color will get, therefore check the color frequently to make sure that you don’t “overdye” it.
Charcoal grey and darker brown shades can be obtained with the use of iron sulphate.
To use as a tannin in a tannin/aluminium mordanting process: Use 10g acorn extract powder for 100g of fiber. Pour boiling water over the powder. Allow the mixture to cool overnight. The next day, bring the tannin bath to a gentle simmer, add the fabric/fiber and more hot water if necessary to cover the fabric/fiber. Leave for several hours or overnight, stirring occasionally. Follow this with the use of an aluminium mordant, and a second tannin soak, if desired.
Madder Root Powder
Ensure your fibre/fabric has been properly scoured before use. Depending on the effects required, different mordants may be used.
For mauve and purple colours, fibres can be mordanted first with iron sulphate.
Use 100g madder powder to dye approximately 100g of fibre, for strong tones. Place the powder into a pan and cover with hot water from the tap/faucet, enough to ensure your fabric/fibre can be moved around easily for even uptake of the dye. Bring the dyebath to 60-70 degrees Celsius (140-160F) and maintain at this temperature for an hour. Add your wet/damp fibres and keep the dyebath at 60-70 degrees Celsius for a further hour. If you allow the temperature to get too high, you will get browner/duller colours. Allow the dyebath to cool for several hours or overnight, stirring occasionally. If the desired shades have not been reached, you can reheat and cool again.
A second use of the dyebath can often be made, which will result in paler shades than the first dyebath. Simply reheat the bath and add more fibres/fabrics. You may even find you can do a third batch.
]]>Yes, we can. Silk (protein fibres) accept dyes best. Plant fibres (cotton and linen) need a mordant or a dye with natural tannins (avocados, onion skins, or black walnuts). All fibres should be scoured prior to dyeing for the best results. We are firm believers that your textile is like the canvas of the painter. When your canvas is prepped properly, your art will be much more mesmerizing, hence we suggest to use a mordant with silk too, to ensure the longevity of the colours. Only if you decide to dye your silk with woad or indigo should you skip using a mordant.
First of all, know your silk. If you are not sure what kind of silk fabric you have, try to figure it out before you dye it because different silk fabrics take natural dyes differently. Here is an amazing blog post about different kinds of silk fabrics: http://www.wildcolours.co.uk/html/silk.html
Tools that you will need:
Dyable Silk
Alum Mordant (aluminium potassium sulphate)
Measuring spoons
Metal Pot (bigger than 10L)
Large bowl
Stainless Steel Spoon (wooden spoon is not okay as silk fibres can catch on the edge of it)
Rubber Gloves
Mordanting Your Silk
To ensure that the dye fixes to the silk properly you need to mordant the silk first.
Now Let’s Dye the Silk with Natural Dyes
Tie-dyed clothing is not a new fashion trend. Probably everybody remembers the 1960s and 1970s when the bright, colourful tie-dyed clothes reached the peak of their popularity. Hippies were spreading hope, love and peace wearing these fun and free-spirited garments. They represented freedom and flourishing at that time. Since then tie-dye garments came and went with fashion trends and now they are back again. This time in a different way, yet again brought by a new movement for a better future and with a little more natural aesthetic.
In the 1960s tie-dye garments were dyed with synthetic dyes containing a lot of chemicals and acid. In reverse tie-dye methods bleach is used to form patterns on the already bright colored fabric. Unsurprisingly the mass production of garments used with these dying techniques caused and are still causing massive environmental harm. So why not make your tie-dye garments yourself with natural ingredients? You will not only have fun dying your own garments but they will be dearer to you knowing that the garment dye is completely eco-friendly.
Nature provides us with an abundance of natural dyes and some of it you may find in your garden, pantry or in a park nearby. Natural dyes are made of different kinds of plants. The most popular and accessible plant dyes are onion skin, turmeric powder, red cabbage, beats, avocados, blueberries, weld, coreopsis, dahlias, sulphur cosmos, marigold, sunflower and dyer's chamomile etc. If you are not fond of collecting your natural dye ingredients, we have several 100% natural dye options among our products like white oak gallnuts, red pine bark extract, weld powder, pomegranate peel powder etc. You can check them out at themazi natural dyes
For the sake of simplicity and accessibility, this time we are going to make tie-dye with onion skin.
Onion is a bulbous plant grown for its use in food, they are used all over the world. As the onions become fully grown, the foliage dies back, and the outer layers of the bulbs turn crispy and papery. It is these leaves which are used to create yellow and orange/brown shades, and soft olive greens with the addition of iron. Onion is one of the easiest dyestuffs to use as it does not require a mordant and can safely be used in your kitchen.
How to dye with onion skins:
Ensure your fibre/fabric has been properly scoured or mordanted before use. You can read our blog on how to scouring and mordanting.
Bundle up your fabric and tie it together.
Use two good handfuls of onion skins to make a dye bath. If you want to be scientific about it, approximately 30g of onion skins will give a strong colour on 100g of fibre.
Place the skins into a pan and cover with water, enough to ensure your fabric/fibre can be moved around easily for even uptake of the dye. Bring the dyebath to the boil and simmer for 30 minutes.
Remove the skins if you wish. Add your wet/damp fibres and simmer the dye bath for a further half hour. Allow the dye bath to cool for several hours or overnight, stirring occasionally.
Extra Tips:
How to dye pink with safflower?
“Safflower rose or Indian rose are rarely used in painting, it was one of the most renowned cosmetic pigments in Europe, from Renaissance to early nineteenth century.
One way to make it was to dye cotton pink and then rub off to remove pure pigment, mixed with thin talc.
Here's one of those recipes:
1-Safflower ligules are placed to macerate in cold water, with a little citric acid.
2-The mix is filtered. Yellow juice is not preserved. Operation 3 or four times is repeated until the juice flowing from the washed ligules is light yellow and clear.
3-A solution of potassium carbonate is then prepared in which the ligules are macerated again, then this new juice is separated by pressing through a tissue.
Alkaline extractions are repeated and carefully filtered juices are kept.
4-Cotton fabrics (usually falls), are macerated in this alkaline solution, then citric acid is added to neutralize alkalinity.
5-Pink coloring appears and rushes to the fabric.
6-The dyed fabric is then flushed with pure water to remove the traces of yellow.
7-Then it's rubbed off in potash carbonate solution: All the pure coloring is found in the solution.
8-Added citric acid, then fine talc (magnesium silicate), which aggregates the pigment and drops it to the bottom of the bowl.
9-All it needs is to do is filter the pink pigment through a cloth and dry it.”
As much as avocados complement your every meal, there is a much wide range of their usefulness. One of the handiest usages of avocados is their ability to be a source of natural dyes. The resultant is a unique and distinctive variety of shades.
Some of the essential things to consider for avocado dyeing are as follows:
Before initiating your dye-making process, it is crucial to have a rough idea regarding the quantity you need to prepare. The amount of the dye will depend upon two factors.
While preparing a natural dye, you might go through some trial and error. Different avocados may result in variations in the color of the final product. Most often, even the ripeness of the fruit can yield a variety of colors. Hence, it is better to continue doing the process until you achieve your desired color.
Choosing the accurate fabric for dyeing holds its significance. Natural dye only works with certain fabrics. Thus, picking the wrong fabric can lead to your hard work going in vain. So to make your dye work, your fabric must be a hundred percent natural fiber like
If you like to check themazi fabrics for natural dyeing click here.
For getting deeper shades, plant-based fabrics like cotton need pretreatment with a mordant before dyeing. You can easily pretreat your fabric with oak gallnut, alum and many other options. On the other hand, animal-based fabrics like wool or silk can work well without any pre-mordant.
You can read How to Prepare Fiber/Fabric for Natural Dyeing?
Letting go of the excess avocado flesh is necessary. Even its slight presence might turn your dye brown. So, try to remove it as much as possible by scraping it off with a spoon. It will help you in achieving some bright shades of the dye.
If you are looking forward to brighter shades of pink, the water pH level might create a hurdle. You can turn the pH more alkaline by adding bicarbonate soda to the water. Other alternatives to gain vibrant shades of the dye include trying
Steps Required To Prepare Avocado Dye:
If you are an avocado lover, you might be having some leftovers with you. Preparing an avocado dye is relatively simple and can be easily carried out in a few basic steps.
How to dye with madder root powder?
Ensure your fiber/fabric has been properly scoured before use. Depending on the effects required, different mordants may be used.
You can read our blog on scouring and mordanting.
Use 100g madder powder to dye approximately 100g of fiber, for strong tones. Place the powder into a pan and cover with hot water from the tap/faucet, enough to ensure your fabric/fiber can be moved around easily for even uptake of the dye. Bring the dyebath to 60-70 degrees celsius (140-160F) and maintain at this temperature for an hour. Add your wet/damp fibers and keep the dyebath at 60-70 degrees celsius for a further hour. If you allow the temperature to get too high, you will get browner/duller colours. Allow the dyebath to cool for several hours or overnight, stirring occasionally. If the desired shades have not been reached, you can reheat and cool again.
To obtain more orangey shades, fibers/fabrics can be dipped in a citric acid solution or water with vinegar added after dyeing. A dip in iron suphate solution will ‘sadden’ the colors.
A second use of the dyebath can often be made, which will result in paler shades than the first dyebath. Simply reheat the bath and add more fibers/fabrics. You may even find you can do a third batch.
Citric acid or white vinegar can be added to the spent dyebath, with more fibers/fabrics simmered in this for half an hour for yellow or peach shades. Note that this dye is highly pH sensitive, so the color may change to pink on washing.
For mauve and purple colors, fibers can be mordanted first with iron sulphate, but if you want to dye reds as well, a portion of the original dyebath should be taken out and the iron-mordanted fibers processed separately to avoid iron contamination in the red dyebath. Iron-mordanted fibers/fabric should be held at 60-70 degrees celsius as for reds.
]]>On the bottom right you see the results on fabric that was mordanted with a combination of oak gall and aluminium acetate. Those are the best and most saturated colours, apart from the wool.
Alum acetate is better for cellulose fibres, like cotton and linen, than alum (aluminium sulphate). You can buy aluminium acetate, although I haven't been successful in finding it in the Netherlands, where I live. There is an inexpensive method of making your own aluminium acetate though. I learned that from the book The Art And Science Of Natural Dyes, by Joy Boutrop and Catherine Ellis. A book that I can warmly recommend as it is packed with information about natural dyes and mordants.
Which method of mordanting fits you best, depends on your personal circumstances and choices. From simple (soymilk) to somewhat more complicated (tannin and aluminium acetate) and from completely renewable sources (tannin and symplocos) to cost effective (alum or tannin/alum acetate). And it depends on the wished for results of course. I am very pleased with the range of warm, bright yellows that I got from buckthorn and it has quickly become one of my favourite dyes!
Shipping cost are mostly the same for 1kg to 3kg. Shipping cost is calculated based on the product weight. So here is basicly our shipping cost to USA, Canada and the EU. So as you can see shipping cost are much more expensive for small orders.
Q.1. Where do we ship our Natural Dyes and Fabrics?
A.1. We do ship basically all around the world with FedEX. So if FedEX is operating in your country, it means we do ship there.
Q.2. Do we ship USA and Canada.
A.2. Yes we do. Our most of customers are from the USA and Canada. We deliver with FedEX in 5-7 days to those countries. There is no custom tax up to 800$.
Q.3. Do we deliver to the EU and how about the Custom?
A.3. Yes we deliver to the EU countries in 3-5 days normally. We now have IOSS number which is show that we pay VAT to the EU. When you will shop you will have to pay VAT to themazi. We will pay the VAT we charge to your country thanks to our IOSS number.
Up to 150 Euro (excluding VAT and Shipping cost) you wont pay any custom tax while buying from themazi natural dyes.
]]>
Up to 150 Euro orders, you will not pay any custom tax or etc, once you buy and pay your VAT to themazi. pic
Here is the official the EU announcement.
ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT THE IMPORT ONE-STOP SHOP (IOSS)
The Import One-Stop Shop (IOSS) is the electronic portal businesses can use since 1 July 2021 to comply with their VAT e-commerce obligations on distance sales of imported goods.
According to the VAT rules applicable up until 1 July 2021, no import VAT has to be paid for commercial goods of a value up to EUR 22.
The new VAT e-commerce rules abolish this provision as of 1 July 2021. Thus, from 1 July 2021, all commercial goods imported into the EU from a third country or third territory is subject to VAT irrespective of their value.
The IOSS allows suppliers and electronic interfaces selling imported goods to buyers in the EU to collect, declare and pay the VAT to the tax authorities, instead of making the buyer pay the VAT at the moment the goods are imported into the EU as it was previously the case (for products over 22 EUR).
The IOSS facilitates the collection, declaration and payment of VAT for sellers that are making distance sales of imported goods to buyers in the EU. The IOSS also makes the process easier for the buyer, who is only charged at the time of purchase, and therefore does not face any surprise fees when the goods are delivered. If the seller is not registered in the IOSS, the buyer has to pay the VAT and usually a customs clearance fee charged by the transporter .
Online Sellers | Electronic Interfaces |
---|---|
On1 July 2021 the value added tax (VAT) exemption for the importation of goods not exceeding EUR 22 has been removed. As a result, all goods imported to the EU are subject to VAT. The Import One-Stop Shop (IOSS) was created to facilitate and simplify the declaration and payment of VAT for goods sold from a distance by sellers from either the EU or from a non-EU country or territory. Furthermore, VAT payment is applicable only to purchases made by a buyer within the EU and for goods valued at less than EUR 150. |
On 1 July 2021, the VAT exemption for the importation of goods into the EU not exceeding EUR 22 has been removed. As a result, all goods imported into the EU are subject to VAT. If the sale of goods is facilitated through an electronic interface to buyers in the EU, the electronic interface is considered to have made the sale and is in principle liable for the payment of VAT. The IOSS was created to facilitate and simplify the declaration and payment of VAT for goods sold from a distance by sellers from either the EU or from a non-EU country or territory. Furthermore, VAT payment is applicable only to purchases made by a buyer within the EU and for goods valued at less than EUR 150. |
Online Sellers | Electronic Interfaces |
---|---|
The IOSS covers the sale of goods from a distance that are:
|
When an electronic interface facilitates the sales of imported goods from a supplier and the goods are:
The electronic interface is considered to have facilitated the sale of imported goods when it allows a buyer and a seller to enter into contact via that electronic interface, where the end result is the sale of goods to that buyer. |
100g cotton fabric (Any of them from our store)
20g sodium carbonate (soda ash) - for the scouring stage
10g oak gall powder
15g potassium aluminium sulphate (PAS, also known as alum)
2g sodium carbonate (soda ash) - for the mordanting stage
100g madder powder.
You will need
Introduction - important reading
You will first prepare your fabric by ‘scouring’ it to clean it of any residual materials from its manufacture. This is important for even uptake of the dye. Then you will treat your fabric with oak gall tannin and then mordant your fabric piece so that the dye will be permanent. Mordanting prepares the fibres so that the dye can fix properly to them. The mordant you will make from alum and sodium carbonate (soda ash) from the kit. Next you will prepare a madder dyebath, and dye your fabric.
Just because the dyes and other substances you will be using are 'natural' does not mean they are safe, so please follow safety instructions carefully.
Wash all equipment thoroughly between stages to avoid contamination.
Read all the instructions before proceeding. The process takes several days to complete, so you need to plan your time.
Simmer the fabric for 90 minutes in the large non-reactive pan with 20g sodium carbonate (soda ash) and rinse well. Alternatively, put the fabric through the hottest cycle in your washing machine (at least 90 degrees C, 190F) with the 20g sodium carbonate (soda ash) in the drum. You can now dry the fabric (pin a paper label on it saying ‘scoured’ if you are not going to use it immediately), or you can wring out the fabric and proceed to the next step straight away. Wear gloves for wringing out.
Put the oak gall powder into a plastic bucket, and pour over boiling water. Stir to release the tannin from the powder. Add enough hot water (hot from the tap/faucet is sufficiently hot) so that the fiber/fabric can be completely covered with room to stir easily. Wet the fiber/fabric and add it to the tannin bath. Cover and leave to stand overnight, stirring occasionally. To keep the tannin bath warm for as long as possible, you can cover with a lid and wrap with a towel. Wring the fabric out well ready for mordanting. You can use this solution again after mordanting your fabric, so reserve it and keep it in a cool place if you wish to do this. A second tannin soak can further assist with good dye uptake.
Next you will need 15g alum (potassium aluminium sulphate, PAS) and 2g sodium carbonate (soda ash). Wear gloves. Take the alum and 2g sodium carbonate and dissolve each powder separately with boiling water, for example in glass jars with lids. In a container big enough to accommodate your fiber/fabric easily, add some hot water which will be sufficient to cover the fabric easily - from the tap/faucet is hot enough. Then add each of the alum and sodium carbonate solutions carefully - the mixture will fizz when the two are mixed. Stir and add the damp tannin-prepared fiber/fabric, and leave for several hours or overnight, stirring occasionally. Wearing gloves, wring it out well.
The fiber/fabric can be treated a second time with the tannin mixture from the first step if you wish. You can now dye straight away, or leave it to dry, and dampen again when you are ready to dye.
Place the madder powder into a pan and cover with plenty of hot water from the tap/faucet. Bring the dyebath to 60-70 degrees celsius (140-160F) and maintain at this temperature for an hour. It’s important not to allow the temperature to get higher, or you will get browner/duller colours.
Add the fabric to the dye bath and keep it at 60-70 degrees celsius (140-160F) for a further hour. With the fabric left in, allow the dye bath to cool for several hours or overnight, stirring occasionally. Wring your fabric out well and hang out of direct sunlight to dry. Once dry you can brush or rub the fabric gently with your hands to remove loose madder powder. Allow two to three days before washing.
Hand wash the dyed fabric with a pH neutral detergent and rinse well. You will see some colour coming out of the fabric into the wash and rinse water, that’s normal. Press with a hot iron.
]]>
100g cotton fabric
20g sodium carbonate (soda ash)
100g madder powder
2g iron sulphate
You will need
Introduction - important reading
You will first prepare your fabric by ‘scouring’ it to clean it of any residual materials from its manufacture. This is important for even uptake of the dye. Next you will prepare a madder dyebath, and then mordant your fabric piece so that the dye will be permanent. Mordanting prepares the fibres so that the dye can fix properly to them. The mordant provided is iron sulphate, which will enable you to achieve a mauve colour, rather than the usual orange/red/pink tones obtained with madder. The use of iron in natural dyeing changes dye colours, so it is really important to keep separate any equipment you use for iron, as small traces of iron left on the equipment can taint later dye experiments.
Just because the dyes and other substances you will be using are 'natural' does not mean they are safe, so please follow safety instructions carefully.
Iron sulphate will stain wooden work surfaces and your hands black, so when you are using this, make sure you cover your surface well and wear gloves.
Wash all equipment thoroughly between stages to avoid contamination.
Simmer the fabric for 90 minutes in the large non-reactive pan with the sodium carbonate (soda ash) and rinse well. Alternatively, put the fabric through the hottest cycle in your washing machine (at least 90 degrees C, 190F) with the sodium carbonate (soda ash) in the drum. You can now dry the fabric (pin a paper label on it saying ‘scoured’ if you are not going to use it immediately), or you can proceed to the next steps straight away.
Place the madder powder into a pan and cover with plenty of hot water from the tap/faucet. Bring the dyebath to 60-70 degrees celsius (140-160F) and maintain at this temperature for an hour. It’s important not to allow the temperature to get higher, or you will get browner/duller colours.
Half an hour into the cooking time, put the fabric into a bucket of cold water to wet it thoroughly. Ten minutes before the end of the cooking time for the dyebath, remove the fabric from the bucket and wearing gloves, and working on a covered surface (see introduction) add the iron sulphate to the water. Mix well and put the fabric back into the bucket. Stir well to ensure it is well soaked in the iron sulphate solution. The solution may go a pale rusty colour, that’s OK. Leave to soak for about 10 minutes, and then wring out lightly (don’t forget your gloves!).
Add the fabric to the dyebath and keep it at 60-70 degrees celsius (140-160F) for a further hour. With the fabric left in, allow the dyebath to cool for several hours or overnight, stirring occasionally. Wring your fabric out well and hang out of direct sunlight to dry. Once dry you can brush or rub the fabric gently with your hands to remove loose madder powder. Allow two to three days before washing.
Hand wash the dyed fabric with a pH neutral detergent and rinse well. You will see some colour coming out of the fabric into the wash and rinse water, that’s normal. Iron with a hot iron.