Bundle Dye Tutorial: Silk Shawl with Madder and Buckthorn

A tutorial written by Mykala Micek of Naturally Dyed Goods, in collaboration with themazi.

This step-by-step tutorial shows how to bundle dye a silk shawl with madder root powder and buckthorn seed powder. Bundle dyeing with dye powders creates variegated, almost tie-dyed colors, and it is a very efficient use of dye: you get strong, vibrant colors from very small amounts of powder, because the dye is in direct contact with the fiber. It is a very accessible project for a first-time natural dyer, so don't be afraid to give it a go!

Supply list

• A silk or cotton shawl or scarf. This tutorial used a peace silk shawl; our undyed cotton tulle shawl and dye-ready blanks work well too. (Cotton needs a tannin and alum mordant; see the note below.)
• Alum (potassium aluminum sulfate)
• Madder root powder, about 100 g (3.5 oz)
• Buckthorn seed powder, about 100 g (3.5 oz)

Prefer a ready-made set? Our bundle dye kit includes everything you need.

You will also need

• A stock pot that you do not use for cooking
• An old steamer basket or stainless steel colander
• Cotton string or rubber bands
• A dust mask, so you don't breathe in fine powder

Step 1: Scour and mordant

First, scour and mordant the shawl. "Scour" is a fancy word for washing really well: wash the silk in hot water with plenty of pH-neutral soap (most plant-based dish soaps are fine) and rinse well.

To mordant, weigh out alum at 10–15% of the dry weight of the fabric (WOF). This project needed roughly 3 tablespoons. Dissolve the alum in enough hot water to cover the silk, and soak the silk for at least 6 hours; overnight is best.

Note for cotton: soak cotton in a tannin bath such as white oak gall before the alum. See how to mordant cotton and linen.

Step 2: Design and place the dye powders

Wring out the mordanted shawl and spread it flat on a clean surface. Put on your mask. This is where your one-of-a-kind piece takes shape. There are no rules, but the amount and placement of the powders decides the intensity, gradients and balance of color in the final piece, so think about the result you want.

For a random, tie-dye-inspired design with more red than yellow, Mykala placed the madder powder first. Buckthorn gives a very strong yellow, so she used it as an accent, filling in with tiny amounts between the madder. You don't need much of either dye: these are powerful colors applied directly to the fiber. For an ombré, try madder at one end, buckthorn at the other and a mixture in the middle.

Next, roll the shawl into a tight bundle and tie it with cotton string or rubber bands, so the powders stay in contact with the fabric while it steams. Tuck in the fringe at both ends so it gets some color too. Wherever there are folds, you will likely see creases and mirror patterns in the print. Use this to create symmetrical or repeating designs!

Step 3: Steam and rest

Steam the bundle in a steamer basket or old stainless steel colander over simmering water for 45–60 minutes. If the silk dried out before steaming, dip it again in water or in the mordant solution for more saturated color all over. Then let the bundle rest for as long as you can wait; Mykala prefers at least 24 hours. It is the hardest part, but it is worth it for the colors!

Step 4: Unbundle, wash and press

Unwrap your plant-dyed present and see what you have created! Rinse it well, then wash it in cool water with pH-neutral soap. Rinse again and air dry. For the crispest finish, iron it on low while it is still damp.

Wear and enjoy!

Related: How to dye silk with natural dyes · Everything to know about madder · Buckthorn mordant comparison