How to Dye Pink with Safflower: Michel Garcia's Recipe

Safflower (Carthamus tinctorius) petals contain two dyes: a water-soluble yellow and a rare pink-red called carthamin, which dissolves only in alkaline water. By washing out the yellow first and then extracting the pink, you can dye beautiful pinks and corals on cotton and silk without a mordant. Master natural dyer Michel Garcia used themazi safflower petals for this traditional recipe, with spectacular results.

A little history: safflower rose

Safflower pink, also called "safflower rose" or "Indian rose", was rarely used in painting, but it was one of the most famous cosmetic pigments in Europe from the Renaissance to the early 19th century, and it was the classic pink dye of Japan and India. One way to make the pigment was to dye cotton pink, then strip the pure color back off the cotton and mix it with fine talc.

How to dye pink with safflower: Michel Garcia's recipe

Part 1: Remove the yellow

1. Soak the safflower petals in cold water with a little citric acid.
2. Strain. Discard the yellow liquid (or keep it to dye yellow on alum-mordanted fiber).
3. Repeat 3–4 times, until the liquid running from the washed petals is pale yellow and clear.

Part 2: Extract the pink

4. Prepare an alkaline solution of potassium carbonate (potash) and soak the washed petals in it.
5. Press the liquid out through a cloth. Repeat the alkaline extraction a few times and keep the carefully strained liquid.

Part 3: Dye the cotton

6. Soak scoured cotton fabric in the alkaline pink solution.
7. Add citric acid to neutralize the alkali. The pink color appears and rushes onto the fabric.
8. Rinse the dyed fabric with clean water to remove any traces of yellow.

Part 4 (optional): Make safflower pink pigment

9. Rub the dyed cotton in a potassium carbonate solution. The pure pink color moves into the solution.
10. Add citric acid, then fine talc (magnesium silicate). The talc collects the pigment and settles at the bottom of the bowl.
11. Filter the pink pigment through a cloth and let it dry.

Tips for dyeing with safflower

• Safflower pink works best on cotton and silk. Do not use it on wool: the alkaline bath can damage wool.
• No mordant is needed for the pink.
• Safflower pink is not very lightfast, so dry and store dyed items out of direct sunlight.
• Use the yellow liquid from Part 1 on alum-mordanted fiber for soft yellows, or overdye pink with yellow for corals and oranges.

Frequently asked questions

What colors does safflower give?

Yellows from the water-soluble dye, and pinks, corals and reds from carthamin.

Can I use soda ash instead of potassium carbonate?

Many dyers use soda ash for the alkaline extraction with good results.

Related: Natural red and pink dyes · 12 natural dyes for fabric · How to dye silk with natural dyes