Weld is one of the most trusted sources of bright, clean yellow in natural dyeing. If you want a yellow that looks clear (not muddy) and can also shift into golden or olive/chartreuse tones, weld is a classic choice.

• In this guide you’ll learn:
• What Weld Powder is and why it’s special
• How to choose Powder vs Extract
• The realistic shade range you can achieve
• Three recipe cards for: Lemon Yellow, Golden Yellow, and Olive/Chartreuse (iron shift)
• Troubleshooting tips for consistent results

What is Weld Powder?

Weld (botanical name: Reseda luteola) is a traditional dye plant valued for producing clear yellows on natural fibers. The primary colorant in weld is luteolin, a flavonoid known for strong, bright yellow tones and good performance when fibers are properly prepared.

Weld Powder is weld plant material that has been dried and finely milled into a powder. This format supports a classic dye-bath workflow: you create a dye bath, build shade depth by adjusting concentration and time, and optionally shift tones with modifiers.

Made in Turkey. TheMazi offers weld powder in retail packs and also supports wholesale orders (50 kg+) for studios and production dyeing.

→ Wholesale: [WHOLESALE / CONTACT LINK]

Shade range you can get from weld

Weld powder can reliably produce these directions:

• Lemon Yellow (bright, clean, crisp yellow)
• Golden Yellow (warmer, richer yellow)
• Olive / Chartreuse shifts (yellow-green tones using a light iron modifier)

Note: Natural dye results vary by fiber type, mordanting method, water chemistry, and dye concentration. The recipes below are designed to be repeatable and easy to scale.

 

Powder vs Extract: which should you choose?

If you’re deciding between our two weld products:

• Weld Powder = traditional workflow, flexible shade building, classic dye bath
• Weld Extract = faster setup, easier storage, often more repeatable with less handling

If you want quicker preparation and consistent repeats, choose Weld Extract:

→ [WELD EXTRACT PRODUCT LINK]

If you want the classic plant-based powder process, choose Weld Powder:

→ [WELD POWDER PRODUCT LINK]

Before you dye: the two steps that decide everything

Even the best dye won’t look good if these are skipped:

1) Scour (clean fiber = even color)

Proper scouring removes oils, waxes, and residues that cause patchy dyeing—especially on cotton and linen.

2) Mordant (so the color bonds well)

• Wool & silk: alum mordant
• Cotton & linen: tannin + alum recommended for strongest, clearest yellow

3 Weld Powder Recipes

Below are three recipe cards. All percentages are based on WOF (Weight of Fabric/Fiber) = dry weight.

Recipe 1: Lemon Yellow (bright + clean)

Goal: crisp, clear yellow

Dye amount: 10% WOF weld powder

Best on: wool, silk, cotton, linen (with proper mordanting)

Time: 45–60 minutes gentle heat + cool soak

Steps

1. Scour and mordant your fiber.
2. Make a smooth slurry with warm water (prevents clumps).
3. Add slurry to the dye pot and fill with water (room to move).
4. Add wet, mordanted fiber.
5. Heat gently 45–60 minutes, stirring occasionally.
6. Turn off heat and let cool in the bath for clearer, stronger yellow.
7. Rinse and dry away from direct sun.

Tip: If yellow looks dull, the usual cause is poor scouring or weak mordanting.

Recipe 2: Golden Yellow (warmer + deeper)

Goal: richer, more saturated yellow

Dye amount: 20% WOF weld powder

Time: 60 minutes gentle heat + longer cool soak (1–12 hours)

Steps

1. Follow Recipe 1 method.
2. Increase dye to 20% WOF.
3. After heating, allow fiber to sit in the cooling bath longer (even overnight).
4. Rinse and dry; judge color after fully dry.

Tip: Bigger pot + more water improves evenness.

Recipe 3: Olive / Chartreuse shift (iron modifier)

Goal: yellow-green / olive tones

This shade is achieved by dyeing yellow first, then doing a very light iron shift.

Base: Recipe 1 (lemon) or Recipe 2 (golden)

Modifier: very dilute iron bath (go slowly)

Steps (recommended: separate iron dip)

1. Dye fabric yellow first (Recipe 1 or 2).
2. Prepare a weak iron bath in a separate container.
3. Dip the fabric briefly, moving constantly.
4. Remove immediately when it shifts to olive/chartreuse.
5. Rinse right away.

Tip: Iron is powerful—start light. You can always repeat a short dip.

Troubleshooting (quick fixes)

Pale color: increase % WOF, improve scouring, confirm mordanting.

Patchy dyeing: insufficient scouring, crowded pot, poor movement, powder not pre-mixed as slurry.

Unexpected green/dull tones: accidental iron contamination (tools/pot/water) or too strong iron shift.

Color rubs off easily: mordanting step was skipped or too weak (especially cotton/linen).

Storage & handling

• Store sealed in a cool, dry place.
• Avoid breathing dye dust while measuring (basic care helps).
• Natural batches may vary slightly—this is normal.