Natural Dyes for Cotton & Linen

Cotton and linen are plant (cellulose) fibers. They hold natural dyes less easily than wool and silk, so the preparation matters more. This collection brings together everything you need, in the order you use it.

The cotton and linen method

  1. Scour with soda ash (2–5% WOF) to remove waxes and finishes.
  2. Tannin with white oak gall or sumac (about 8–10% WOF) for clear colors.
  3. Alum at 12–15% WOF with a little soda ash, then an optional chalk rinse.
  4. Dye with madder, weld, buckthorn or indigo.

Want it simple? The Cellulose Mordant Studio Kit has the mordants in one box. Use the WOF calculator to get exact grams for your fabric weight, and read our guide to mordanting cotton and linen.

Need fabric? See undyed fabric by the yard.

Frequently asked questions

Do I need tannin for cotton?

For most dyes, yes. Tannin helps cotton and linen hold the alum mordant, so colors are deeper and more wash-fast. Indigo is the exception: it needs no mordant.

Which natural dyes work best on cotton?

Indigo, madder, weld and tannin-rich dyes such as pomegranate and walnut give strong results on cotton and linen.

How much alum for cotton?

After a tannin bath, use 12–15% alum WOF with a little soda ash to neutralize it.

Guides for this collection

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