Aleppo Oak Galls (Quercus infectoria) Complete Tannin Guide for Natural Dyeing

Natural dyeing • Iron blacks • Ink making • Leather tannage • Storage & ratios

Start here (read this first)

Aleppo oak galls are one of the most tannin-rich materials used in traditional craft. In natural dyeing they’re a tannin treatment that helps plant fibers (especially cotton and linen) take color more evenly and with better depth. With iron, they can shift tones to grey, charcoal, and near-black. Oak galls are also widely used in ink making and can be relevant in leather work where tannins matter.

If you want a single page that answers: “What does it do, how do I use it, how much do I use, what can I make with it, and what should I watch out for?”—this is it.

What are Aleppo oak galls?

Aleppo oak galls (botanical source: Quercus infectoria) are growths formed on oak trees and are naturally high in tannins. Tannins are plant compounds that:

• bond strongly with fiber surfaces (especially cellulose),
• interact dramatically with iron,
• support traditional processes like tannin blacks and inks.
• Think of oak galls as a foundation ingredient: sometimes they create color themselves, but more often they make other processes work better and more predictably.

What can you use oak galls for?

1) Natural dyeing (most common)

• As a tannin treatment for cotton/linen before dyeing
• As a base for iron greys/blacks
• As support in eco print / botanical workflows (advanced)

2) Ink making

• A classic tannin source for historical-style inks (often iron-gall style approaches)

3) Leather / tannage-related uses

• Tannins are part of traditional leather processing. Oak galls can be relevant as a tannin source in tannage-adjacent craft workflows.

Not every customer will use all three. But listing them builds authority and makes the product feel “serious” and versatile.

Whole vs Powder (we sell both)

Whole oak galls

Best if you want full control and transparency. Some makers prefer grinding themselves to feel confident about purity.

Buy Aleppo Oak Galls (Whole) → 

Oak gall powder

Best for speed and consistency. It disperses faster, extracts quickly, and makes repeatable dosing easier.

Buy Aleppo Oak Galls (Powder) →

Result difference?

The chemistry is the same—workflow is different. Powder is usually easier for consistent studio results.

Best fibers (and why oak galls matter most)

Best fit: cellulose fibers

• Cotton
• Linen
• Hemp, ramie, viscose/rayon

These fibers often need extra help to hold plant dyes well—tannin treatment is one of the most effective tools.

Also usable: protein fibers

• Wool
• Silk

Wool/silk often dye well without tannin, but oak galls can still be used—especially if you’re targeting iron greys/blacks or specific workflows.

How much to use (WOF) — simple, professional ranges

WOF = Weight Of Fiber (dry weight of your fabric/yarn).

Tannin treatment (cotton/linen)

5–12% WOF

• 5–7%: light to medium tannin treatment
• 8–12%: stronger, better depth on stubborn cellulose fibers

Oak galls used for visible beige/tan

10–25% WOF (more = deeper)

Iron modifier for greys/blacks

1–3% WOF iron (start at 1%)

Example: fabric weight 500 g (dry)

• Tannin at 10% WOF → 50 g oak galls
• Iron at 1% WOF → 5 g iron

Step-by-step: cotton & linen tannin treatment (recommended method)

Step 1 — Scour first (don’t skip)

Scouring removes oils, finishes, and residues. Skipping this is the #1 reason for weak or patchy results.

Step 2 — Make a tannin bath

1. Fill pot with enough water for free movement
2. Add oak galls (5–12% WOF)
3. Heat gently to 50–70°C (122–158°F)
4. Hold 45–90 minutes, stirring occasionally
5. Let cool a little, then rinse lightly

Tip: Many dyers get better depth by letting tannin-treated fabric rest overnight before the next step.

Step 3 — Continue your dye workflow

After tannin treatment you can proceed to your normal mordanting and dyeing process depending on your recipe and color goals.

Wool & silk (protein fibers) — gentle use

• If you use oak galls on wool or silk:
• Keep temperature 40–60°C (104–140°F)
• Avoid sudden hot/cold shocks and heavy agitation
• Start at 5–8% WOF and test a small swatch first

Oak galls + iron: how to get greys and blacks

Oak galls react strongly with iron, producing:

grey → charcoal → near-black (depending on fiber, strength, and time)

Safer method: tannin bath first, then iron dip

• Do tannin treatment (8–12% WOF works well)
• Prepare an iron bath at 1–3% WOF
• Dip briefly: 1–5 minutes, checking constantly
• Rinse thoroughly

Important warning: Too much iron can weaken fibers over time—especially protein fibers. Start low.

Expected color results (realistic, not “fake promises”)

Oak galls can produce:

• warm beige / tan (by themselves)
• greys to near-black (with iron)
• improved depth/evenness when used as tannin treatment before dyeing plant fibers

Natural dye results vary with water hardness, fabric prep, and technique—always test a swatch.

Tannin content: what to say (and what not to claim)

Oak galls are known as high-tannin material.

Unless you have a lab analysis per batch, avoid stating an exact percentage. Use:

• “tannin-rich”
• “high in tannins”
• “traditionally used as a tannin source”

That keeps you credible and legally safer.

Storage & shelf life

• Keep sealed in a cool, dry place
• Avoid humidity (especially powder)
• Store away from strong odors and sunlight

Whole galls store well when dry; grind only what you need.

Safety & handling

• Avoid inhaling fine powder (mask if needed)
• Use dedicated dye tools (not food cookware)
• Keep away from children and pets

Troubleshooting (fast fixes)

Weak on cotton/linen → scouring not strong enough or tannin too low → re-scour + increase to 8–12% WOF

Patchy → crowded pot / poor movement → more water + stir more

Too dark with iron → iron too high / dip too long → reduce to 1% WOF + shorten dip

FAQ

Can I treat fabric with tannin now and dye later? Yes—dry and store it.

Whole vs powder—same results? Chemistry is the same; powder is easier for consistency.

Is oak gall a dye or a mordant? It’s best described as a tannin source / tannin treatment used in natural dyeing workflows.

Want a dye-ready fabric to test oak galls?

For clean, even results—especially on cellulose—start with a properly prepared, undyed fabric and run a small swatch before scaling up.