Natural Dye Calculator & WOF Chart

Enter the dry weight of your fabric or yarn and get exact grams of dye, mordant, tannin and water. Free to use, for wool, silk, cotton and linen. Charts and sources are below.

StepIngredient% WOFAmount

    Starting points only. Results vary with water, fiber and each natural batch: always test a small sample first.

    What does WOF mean?

    WOF means weight of fiber (also written WOG, weight of goods, or OWF, on weight of fiber). In natural dyeing every amount of dye, mordant and tannin is a percentage of the dry weight of the fiber you want to dye. Recipes written this way scale up and down easily, from a small test swatch to a full dye pot.

    The formula: grams needed = dry fiber weight in grams × % WOF ÷ 100.

    Example: you want to dye 250 g of cotton fabric with madder extract at 5% WOF. 250 × 5 ÷ 100 = 12.5 g of madder extract. For an alum mordant at 12% WOF you need 250 × 12 ÷ 100 = 30 g of alum.

    Always weigh the fiber dry, before you wet it. A digital scale that reads to 0.1 g helps for extracts and iron, which are used in small amounts.

    Natural dye WOF chart

    Starting rates for the dyes we sell. "Light", "medium" and "deep" are typical ranges on well-mordanted fiber. Raw plant powders are used at much higher rates than concentrated extracts.

    Dye Light Medium Deep Colors
    Madder root powder 20–30% 40–60% 80–100% Pink, coral, brick, true red
    Madder extract 2–3% 4–6% 8–10% Pink to deep red
    Weld powder 20–30% 40–60% 80–100% Lemon to golden yellow
    Weld extract 0.25–0.75% 1–2% 3% Bright, clear yellow
    Persian berry powder (buckthorn) 5–10% 10–20% 25–30% Warm golden yellow
    Persian berries, whole (buckthorn) 10–20% 25–35% 50–100% Golden yellow (crush first)
    Persian berry extract (buckthorn) 2–4% 5–6% 8–10% Golden yellow
    Pomegranate peel powder 10–15% 20–30% 40–100% Yellow, khaki; olive and grey with iron
    Black walnut hull powder 10–25% 30–50% 75–100% Beige to dark chocolate (no mordant needed)
    Onion skins 20–30% 50% 100% Gold, orange, rust
    Oak gall powder + iron 8–10% 15–20% 20–30% Silver grey to charcoal
    Natural indigo 2 / 4 / 8 g per litre of vat (see the indigo chart below) Sky blue to navy

    Safflower works differently (separate yellow and red extractions), so it is not in the calculator. See the safflower recipe.

    Mordant and tannin chart

    Ingredient Wool & silk Cotton & linen Notes
    Alum (potassium alum) 10–15% (start at 12%) 12–15%, after tannin Wool: 80–85 °C (175–185 °F), 45–60 min. Silk: under 70 °C (160 °F). Cotton: hot water, then soak overnight. Over 20% can make wool sticky.
    Cream of tartar 5–7% (wool) Not used Keeps wool softer and colors brighter.
    Soda ash with alum Not used 1.5–2% Neutralizes the alum on plant fibers. Add slowly: it fizzes.
    White oak gall powder Optional 8–15% (start at 10%) Clearest tannin: keeps colors bright.
    Green oak gall powder Optional 8–15% (start at 10%) Strong tannin, pale cream tone.
    Sumac leaf powder Optional 20–40% (start at 30%) Soft yellow tone.
    Pomegranate peel (as tannin) Optional 20–30% Adds a yellow tone.
    Acorn tannin extract Optional 5–10% (start at 8%) Concentrated extract.
    Red pine bark extract Optional 5–15% (start at 10%) Warm pink-tan tone; good under reds and browns.

    Read more: alum mordant guide · mordanting wool and silk · mordanting cotton and linen · natural tannins compared.

    Modifiers and assists chart

    Ingredient Rate Use
    Iron (ferrous sulfate), afterbath 0.25–1% on wool and silk; 0.5–2% on cotton and linen Darkens and cools colors: olive, plum, grey, black. Warm water, 5–15 minutes, then rinse well.
    Iron as a mordant 2–4%, never more than 4% Cotton and linen only. Too much iron weakens fibers.
    Calcium carbonate (chalk) 1–6% in a madder bath (start at 2–3%); 4–8% with weld powder; about 1% with extracts Deeper, truer reds and stronger yellows, mainly in soft water. Not a mordant.
    Soda ash, scouring 2–5% for cotton and linen Removes waxes and finishes before mordanting.
    pH-neutral wool wash, scouring 1–2% Gentle scour for wool and silk.
    Gum arabic About 1 part gum to 4 parts liquid as a starting point; adjust to the thickness you need Thickens mordant and dye pastes for printing and painting.

    Indigo vat chart (1-2-3 fructose vat)

    Indigo is measured per litre of vat, not by WOF. The 1-2-3 vat uses 1 part natural indigo, 2 parts slaked lime (calcium hydroxide) and 3 parts fructose, by weight.

    Vat Indigo Slaked lime Fructose Result
    Light 2 g/L 4 g/L 6 g/L Sky and pale blues
    Medium 4 g/L 8 g/L 12 g/L Mid blues
    Dark 8 g/L 16 g/L 24 g/L Deep blue to navy (with several dips)

    Keep the vat at about 30–50 °C (86–122 °F). Aim for pH 9–10 for wool and silk and 11–12 for cotton and linen. Full method: indigo vat guide.

    How much water?

    Use about 2–4 litres of water per 100 g of fiber (a liquor ratio of 1:20 to 1:40) for scouring, mordanting and dyeing. The fiber should move freely in the pot. Too little water is a common cause of patchy color. The amount of water does not change the amount of dye or mordant: those depend only on the fiber weight.

    Tips for repeatable results

    • Test first. Water, fiber and each natural batch differ. Dye a small swatch before a big piece.
    • Keep notes. Write down fiber weight, % WOF, temperature and time. The calculator's "Copy recipe" button helps.
    • Use separate pots for iron, and never use your dye pots for food.
    • Judge color dry. Wet fiber looks darker.
    • Wear a dust mask when measuring fine powders, and gloves for iron and walnut.

    Where these numbers come from

    We checked our rates against expert natural dye suppliers and teachers, peer-reviewed studies and our own test swatches. When sources disagree, we give the common middle range and a safe starting point. Key references:

    Frequently asked questions

    How do I calculate WOF for natural dyeing?

    Weigh your fiber dry. Multiply the dry weight in grams by the percentage and divide by 100. For 200 g of wool and 12% alum: 200 × 12 ÷ 100 = 24 g of alum.

    How much alum do I need per 100 g of fabric?

    For wool and silk use 10–15 g of alum (10–15% WOF), starting at 12 g. For cotton and linen use 12–15 g of alum after a tannin bath, with 1.5–2 g of soda ash.

    How much natural dye do I need?

    It depends on the dye. Raw plant powders such as madder root or weld powder are used at about 25–100% WOF. Concentrated extracts are used at about 0.5–10% WOF. Use the chart above for each dye.

    Does the amount of water change the recipe?

    No. Dye and mordant amounts depend only on the dry fiber weight. Water only needs to cover the fiber so it can move freely, about 2–4 litres per 100 g.

    Is the calculator accurate for every dye batch?

    The numbers are tested starting points. Natural materials, water and fibers vary, so dye a small test swatch first and adjust.

    Related: Mordants for natural dyeing · Natural dye color chart · Shop natural dyes and mordants